Home

Ask Your Energy Questions Search FAQs

Question: What’s the difference between ProPink® and FOAMULAR® rigid insulations?

Tom writes from Ashland, Massachusetts: "First, what's the difference between ProPink and FoamulaR rigid insulations? Second, I have searched and found contradicting replies from this blog on installing rigid foam insulation on the exterior of a home that has interior fiberglass batts with a vapor barrier. Since the perm rating of your rigid insul is 1.1 it is practically a vapor barrier. Now if the rigid insul is installed on a home with an interior vapor barrier then does that not sandwich the walls between the 2 barriers? Could this 2 barrier system lead to problems with trapped moisture? I always thought Your Fan Fold insul was perforated with holes to solve the above mentioned problem. Through the tiny holes punched in the rigid insul water vapor would escape and yet most heat would be trapped."

Answer: PROPINK® insulating sheathing has a film facing. It is a FOAMULAR® brand insulating product that is made with extruded polystyrene. The facing is the key difference in the PROPINK product and standard FOAMULAR insulation. FOAMULAR is not a vapor retarder or barrier. So we recommend using it as an exterior insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:20 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What can I use to insulate my attic?

Joe writes again from Cleveland, Ohio: "I have an attic with a floor which is only used for storage. The joists are 2x6s. What can I use to insulate my attic; whether removing the boards or blowing in insulation. I recently purchased r30 backed sheets from a supplier. I want to know if these will do the job or am I wasting money because I don't have 9 inches of space to get the full r value."

Answer: Adding insulation will help. But adding R-30 to a 2x6 cavity will reduce the R-value to 18. The use of blown-in Fiberglas™ insulation will result in similar R-values.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:18 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Does the old wiring pose a fire hazard with insulation?

Joe writes from Cleveland, Ohio: "I have a ranch which was built in 1950. I recently discovered there was only a tin foil lining in the attic under the floor boards. The foil is all the insulation I have in the attic. We do use some of the space for storage so we would like to keep the floor in the attic. I also have old knob wiring which are on the 2x6's under the floor. What product would best fit my needs? Can I get good insulation with just 6 in. of room? And does the old wiring pose a fire hazard with that type of insulation?"

Answer: For a 2x6 cavity you can get R-19 or R-21. If you are keeping the foil in place, use unfaced Fiberglas™ insulation. If you are removing the foil, use Kraft-faced Fiberglas insulation.

Knob and tube wiring should be kept at least three inches away from the insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:14 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate an unheated tool shed?

Frank writes from Smyrna, Georgia: "I am installing a 10X10 tool shed in a wooded part of the yard and want to add insulation and drywall for a finished look. Because of the location I have concerns of mildew and mold, as well as the heat and cold. Most of the frame is built with the studs 24 inches apart except around a window, and have concerns about special precautions that may be needed there as well. Since the shed will not be heated, should the paper face the exterior, or the interior where the drywall will be placed? What would you suggest for the vaulted ceiling?"

Answer: This is a tricky question to answer since you don't need to insulate an unconditioned space. Insulation is intended to slow the movement of heat from one side of a wall or ceiling to the other side, and since your shed will not be heated, the inside and outside temperatures should be similar. Insulation may slow the buildup of heat in the shed during hot summer days but it will also slow the dissipation of that heat in the evening. The paper facing is commonly installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the wall or ceiling.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:40 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is the difference in two products labeled R-13?

Rick writes from Franklin, Indiana: "When I go to my local home improvement store I see R13 batt insulation and R13 rolled insulation that is labeled "Utility". The batts are recommended for walls and crawl spaces but the rolled doesn't say anything about walls and just says around doors, basement etc. What is the difference? Isn't R13 R13?"

Answer: You are correct - R-13 is R-13. For some projects it may be easier to work with batts than rolls, and vice versa. Some projects need a vapor retarder and others do not. Be sure to get Kraft-faced product if you are insulating exterior walls. The paper is installed toward the warm-in- winter side of the wall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:36 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there an alternative insulation for my project?

Jon writes again from Saint Paul, Minnesota: "I am well aware of fiberglass. I was inquiring about alternatives."

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures two types of insulation - fiberglass and extruded foam. FOAMULAR® insulation has an R-value of five per inch but is not best suited for your application. I am not aware of a suitable alternative.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:33 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use insulation over knob-and-tube wiring?

Gary writes from North Augusta, South Carolina: "Can I use your batt insulation in my attic over knob-and-tube wiring if I lay the batts perpendicular to the joists so it doesn't come in contact with the wires?"

Answer: Knob and tube wiring should be kept a minimum of 3 inches away from Fiberglas™ insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:51 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I insulate the garage's exterior walls if I have a bedroom over the garage?

Jacob writes from Kernersville, North Carolina: "Should I insulate my garage's exterior walls if I have a bedroom over my garage? It seems my son's room (2nd floor over garage) is cooler than other parts of the house. I am sure this is because heat rises and the room below is not heated. Every wall/ceiling in the garage that is connected to the house is insulated. I have one and half walls in my garage that are not insulated. Would it help make my sons room warmer if I would insulate my non-heated garage?"

Answer: The best thing to do is build up the insulation around the cold bedroom. Insulating the ceiling of the garage, or improving what is there, should help. But insulating the exterior walls of an unheated garage will not.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:49 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: When attic flooring compresses insulation, does is significantly decrease R-Value?

Stephan writes from Abingdon, Maryland: "When attic flooring is installed and compresses loose fill insulation, does is significantly decrease the R-Value?"

Answer: Fiber glass insulation works on the principle of trapped air pockets. By compressing fiber glass insulation, you decrease the amount of air trapped in the material. For example, compressing R-19 into a 2x4 wall will give you an R-13 value. If you click through to the chart you will see what that it is for insulation compressed in a wall cavity but the same principle applies for attic insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How much does it cost to add insulation?

Nik writes from Swedesboro, New Jersey: "How much does it cost to add extra insulation. I have a 3400 Sq ft two story home and have R-30 insulation in the attic. I am thinking of adding another R-19 to make the attic R-49 complaint. How much would a roll of R-19 pink insulation cost and how much area does a roll cover? Or give me some estimates on the per-square-foot costs."

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures PINK Fiberglas™ insulation but the company does not set retail pricing. Retail prices are set by the stores that sell the products to contractors and consumers. If you are looking to upgrade the insulation in your home’s attic, you should be able to get the product you need for a few hundred dollars.

To find an Owens Corning insulation retailer based on you ZIP Code, go to the company’s home page and select Owens Corning Building Materials and Services. Click on the button labeled Find a Building Professional. Enter your ZIP Code and select the words that best describe your project. Another click or so and you will have the option of selecting retailers or contractors. Click here for a shortcut to the Locator page.

There is also information on the website about R-19 PINK Fiberglas insulation. Click here for a shortcut to that page.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:40 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Which side should the vapor retarder be on?

Mark writes from Scarborough, Maine: "I have already purchased r30 faced insulation for my garage ceiling. Above the garage is a heated bonus room 65 deg. I plan on heating the garage at min temp around 40ish to keep pipes from freezing, which way should the paper barrier be, or does it matter with both spaced heated?"

Answer: We recommend the paper facing be installed toward the area that will be 65 degrees.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:38 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a better way to insulate my finished basement walls?

Matt writes from Troy, Ohio: "I am finishing my basement walls and have applied slotted 1 1/2 inch foam board insulation with 1x3 furring strips that are flush with the foam. I want to install drywall on the upper half of the wall and the bottom 4 feet with tongue and groove pine boards. I know I need a 15 min. fire covering but wanted to but the pine flush with the drywall. I have already added the fan fold thin insulation on the top half and after putting 1/2 inch drywall over that it will be flush with the thickness of the pine. I thought about using a foil behind the wood which is a good fire rating, but don’t want to cause condensation or wanted to know if there is a better way. I'm racking my head over this. Thanks for any suggestions."

Answer: We recommend contacting your local building inspector to find out if what you have will meet the requirements of a 15-minute thermal barrier. The covering doesn't need to be fire proof so the use of foil over the FOAMULAR® insulation is not necessary.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:34 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What insulation goes above a suspended ceiling?

Steve writes from De Armanville, Alabama: "What type of insulation goes above a suspended ceiling?"

Answer: This will depend on what is above the suspended ceiling but unfaced Fiberglas™ insulation is commonly used above a suspended ceiling.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:35 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What type of insulation would you suggest over cellulose?

Rob writes from Youngstown, Ohio: "My house was built in 1948. I went up the attic to check out my insulation, and it appears there was a very thin yellow, paper faced insulation batts between the joists - paper side down. When the roof was re-shingled by the previous owners 6 years ago, cellulose blown-in was placed over the batts. I was considering adding more insulation now since the tops of the joists are visible again. What type of insulation would you suggest over cellulose? Unfaced rolled bats perpendicular to the joists, or blown in propink fiberglass?”

Answer: We recommend unfaced fiberglass batts be placed perpendicular to the joists. ProPink® blowing wool can be used but that product requires a special blowing machine to install it.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:32 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a significant difference in heat absorption between light and dark roof colors?

Ruth writes from Davis, California: "Is there a significant difference in heat absorption between light and dark roof colors? If I am looking at Oakridge Pro shingles; will the material absorb heat even if it is light colored?"

Answer: The surface reflectance of asphalt shingles could range from 4 to 26 percent based on the color of the shingle. And yes, even the lightest and brightest colors of roofing materials absorb heat. If your real concern is saving energy and reducing the cost of cooling your home, there are other factors to be considered as well, such as ventilation and insulation. Attic and/or roof deck ventilation are an important factor in reducing heat buildup in the attic. For an unconditioned attic, air should be able to move freely through the space from the soffit to the ridge of the roof. If there is conditioned living space in the attic there should be a minimum of one inch of space under the roof deck and ventilation that flows in through the soffit and out through the ridge.

There is information on the Owens Corning website about ventilation. The minimum ratio is 1/300, meaning one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space when you have the proper balance of ridge and soffit/eave vents.

Whatever heat does enter the attic can be kept out of your conditioned living space by insulation. The more insulation you install, the greater the R-value and the better it will work at slowing the movement of heat into the home.

Bottom line: To make your home energy efficient, consider all of the components of the system as a whole. If you prefer to use a darker shingle for aesthetic reasons, compensate with more ventilation and insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:28 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What insulation should I use in the garage ceiling?

Margaret writes from Waldwick, New Jersey: "My house is 50 years old and I don't believe the ceiling in the garage is insulated at all. Therefore, the bedrooms above are always about 8/10 degrees cooler than the rest of the house. The ceiling is sheet rock. What type of insulation would be best suited to remedy this situation?"

Answer: We recommend Kraft-faced R-25 Fiberglas™ batt insulation with the vapor retarder installed up toward the warm-in-winter side. However, this will require the sheetrock be removed for the installation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:16 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What can I put over the fiberglass to hold it in place?

Steve writes from Shelburne, Vermont: "I have 2x4 walls with fiberglass batts and an attic with fiberglass batts between the floor joists. Can I blow cementitious or isocyanurate foam into the walls or onto the attic floors without removing the batting? I'm trying to accomplish 2 things: increase insulation value, and bind the fiberglass so that it can no longer float free in the air (there is a fair amount of exposed fiberglass and I have respiratory issues). If not, anything else I can put over the fiberglass in attic to hold it in place - without adding a vapor barrier to the wrong side?"

Answer: You can install anything breathable over the blown in to hold it in place. Owens Corning hasn't tested its fiberglass insulation with other binding products. I recommend contacting the manufacturer of such products to see if they have done any testing.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:13 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I install a rafter vent between every rafter or only where there is a soffit vent?

Andrew writes from Whitmore Lake, Michigan: "We are building a small (900 sq ft) cabin in Northern Michigan. The cabin has a ridge vent and six soffit vents on each side. The cabin has scissor trusses to give us a raised ceiling. I am preparing to install the ceiling insulation, but was wondering if I should install a rafter vent between every rafter or only where there is a soffit vent?"

Answer: Installing rafter vents where there is a soffit vent should be sufficient, providing there are enough for adequate ventilation.

There is information on the Owens Corning website about installing raft-R-mate® attic rafter vents. You can also find information online about ventilation. The minimum ratio is 1/300, meaning one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space. We recommend a ratio of 1/150.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:08 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What type of insulation should we use for an inside room in the basement?

Lori writes from Hornell, New York: "We are insulating an inside room of a basement. Which type of insulation should we use to cover the studs which we will then cover with sheet rock? The room in not heated, but the cellar is."

Answer: Interior walls are usually insulated for acoustic purposes to reduce sound transmission from one side of the wall to the other. For this purpose we generally recommend filling the stud cavity with fiberglass insulation and not covering the studs with anything other than the sheet rock or similar wall board. Because the entire basement is heated, there should be little or no thermal movement between the new room and the conditioned space surrounding it. Clicking on the highlighted words in this sentence will take you to the Owens Corning Web page presenting QuietZone® noise control solutions for the home. The products in this section are specifically designed for noise control. You will need to check with local building materials retailers for availability.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:55 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I put fiberglass insulation in the walls?

Nick writes from Erie, Pennsylvania: "I glued 3/4 foamular insulation to block cement walls in my basement. I have a 3 inch air space then built 2x4 walls which will be covered with sheet rock. My question is: Should I put fiberglass insulation in the 2x4 walls and if so should it be faced or unfaced? Is the foamular a vapor barrier? If I put insulation in the walls will I create a double vapor barrier? Or should I just use the foamular with no fiberglass insulation?"

Answer: My friends at Owens Corning do not recommend using Fiberglas directly over FOAMULAR® insulation in a basement. And the FOAMULAR should be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier such as sheetrock. Then you are done. FOAMULAR is not a vapor retarder.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:50 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I sufficiently insulate the ceiling or do I need more depth?

Tim writes from Smyrna, Tennessee: "My house is twenty years old and for some reason the builders used 2x6 rafters for the cathedral ceiling. The space above the garage is used for storage and I plan to finish the room and use it at living space. The floor has 10" joists that have not been insulated. I plan to blow insulation into the floor as it is covered with plywood and fur out the ceiling rafters for a total of 8 inches of depth and use the attic rafter vents for ventilation. Can I sufficiently insulate the ceiling or do I need more depth? What insulation should I use for the ceiling and floor? And should I use the rafter vents in every run or should I do every other one?"

Answer: The recommended R-value for your Zip Code area is R-38. A fiberglass batt of R 38 is 12" thick. You can get R-25 for the 2x8. With about four inches of blown-in insulation you should meet the requirement. You should install Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents in every cavity that currently has ventilation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:48 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Once I add insulation, can I put wood over it?

Frank writes from Colonia, New Jersey: "The attic over our bedrooms get extremely hot. It has pull down stairs and plywood laid on top of the beams which we use for storage. I want to add more insulation. Once I add the insulation, can I put the wood back over it?"

Answer: You can place the wood back over top of the insulation provided that the insulation will not be compressed as a result.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:45 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How much clearance should I leave between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the rafters?

Dan writes from Nashua, New Hampshire: "I am planning to install additional loose fill insulation in my attic using the Owens Corning AttiCat system. There is already 6 inches of fiberglass loose fill insulation between the 2x6 floor joists in the attic (no floor covering over the joists). When looking at the minimum square footage of vents required per square foot of attic space, I have plenty of ventilation (one gable vent on each end of the attic, plus eave vents along one side of the attic). However, the attic only has approximately 3.5 to 4 feet of clearance from the top of the joists to the peak of the attic). How much clearance should I leave between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the rafters?"

Answer: You have plenty of space for ventilation. A minimum of 1 inch should be left to maintain soffit and roof deck ventilation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:11 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I remove the old blown-in insulation?

Pat writes from Saint Louis, Missouri: "I have blown-in insulation in the attic of my 65 year old house. It is at least 15 years old and has been walked over by several workmen and has become compressed. I want to increase the insulation in the attic to stabilize the temp on the second floor of my brick home. Should I vacuum out and remove all the old blown-in insulation and then install unfaced rolled insulation between the ceiling joists? Then add a second layer of rolled insulation on top of and perpendicular to the joists? Or is it better to leave the old blown-in stuff alone and just add an attic blanket over that, even if if has been compressed? I don't want to try to blow in more insulation myself. Rolls are much easier and cleaner to work with. I want to shoot for an R Value of about 49 total, correct for the St. Louis Area? Please help!!"

Answer: I don't recommend removing the existing insulation. It is usually better to leave it in place to avoid the work and mess, keep the old insulation out of the landfill and take advantage of whatever R-value it is able to contribute. Rolling the new insulation on top of the existing insulation is fine; fill the cavity between the joists first and then run the next layer perpendicular to the first.

If you do decide to remove the existing insulation, the first layer you install between the joists should be faced and the facing should be down toward the warm-in-winter side. Your target total of R-49 is what is recommended for your area by the U.S. Department of Energy.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:07 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is it OK to use polystyrene on the interior of exterior walls underneath the sheetrock?

Mike writes from Frenchtown, New Jersey: "I am considering building a new home in central MA. Several years ago I lived in Rochester, NY where a builder was using polystyrene on the interior of exterior walls underneath the sheetrock. The builder claimed this method, using 2x4 construction, provided an R rating equivalent to 2x6 construction. I have been researching and trying to find information on this method but all I can find is applying the polystyrene to the outside of the exterior wall. Is applying polystyrene to the interior of an exterior wall an acceptable method, are there any concerns regarding moisture buildup and where can I find information on the method and materials?"

Answer: The builder is correct. This has become a standard building practice in recent years to improve R-value in 2x4 exterior walls. If done properly using unfaced Fiberglass insulation, moisture should not be a concern. Owens Corning does not have literature showing this application but our technical service department can discuss it with you. You can reach them through 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:14 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I wrap the interior with plastic to make a barrier?

Ron writes from Coquille, Oregon: "I am confused with the contradictory terms 'vapor barrier' and 'vapor retarder'. If the insulation has a barrier, I assume I need a permeable exterior wrap. If it's a retarded, I would assume I need a barrier (non-permeable) exterior wrap.

I am under the impression that a 'plane' of a wall must be chosen for a 'barrier' (either the exterior or the interior). It makes sense to use the interior plane the barrier. If it's just a retarder on the insulation, should I wrap the interior with a 'plastic visqueen' to make it a barrier? I like short, succinct questions!!!"

Answer: The Kraft paper on our insulation is classified as a 1.0 perm vapor retarder. It is acceptable for wood frame applications. It is NOT necessary to install an additional barrier. The paper is typically installed toward the sheetrock side of the wall. I hope that helps.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:10 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How much room do I need to leave for soffit vents?

Mike writes from Woodridge, Illinois: "I have blown-in insulation in my 800 sq/ft attic. I was getting some moisture in the attic, and installed two bath fans in the showers upstairs which vent out of the roof, and also installed an attic fan to help airflow. I have soffit vents, 6 total, and they are not blocked. I believe this will cure my moisture problem, am I on the right track?

The blown-in insulation just barely fills in the space between the joists and a home inspector said it is about an R-13 or R-15 value. I plan on adding unfaced R-30 over the existing insulation, across the joists. How much room do I need to leave around the edges for the soffit vents? Inches? Feet?"

Answer: You are on the right track! A minimum 1 inch should be left to maintain soffit ventilation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:07 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I purchase a spray on vapor barrier?

K writes from Larwill, Indiana: "Last weekend I put up half of the drywall on my garage ceiling. I forgot to put up a vapor barrier and DO NOT want to break my back taking down the drywall that I just put up to put on the barrier plastic. What else can I do? Can I purchase a spray on vapor barrier? If so, then where? Lowe's? Menards?"

Answer: Yes, you can apply a "spray on" or "paint on" vapor retarder to the ceiling in the garage. I don't know what paints they have at the stores you mention but the product can be found at most paint shops.

You don't mention it but I am assuming you also installed insulation and that the garage space is conditioned. If the garage and the space above are not conditioned, you don't need insulation or a vapor retarder. If the space above the garage is conditioned, painting the ceiling with a vapor retarder will put it on the wrong side of the assembly. In that case I would either paint the flooring above, if that is possible, or leave it alone because the movement of moisture down through the assembly should be minimal.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:01 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Where should I place the insulation?

Joe writes from Fisherville, Kentucky: "I am building a house and the garage has a bonus room above it. I plan on installing Faced R30 insulation in this location but my ceiling joists/ rafters (trusses) are about 16 inches tall. Should I place the insulation at the bottom or top of the this space, considering that I will have about 7+ inches of void between the bonus floor and garage sheetrock ceiling."

Answer: The paper should be in contact with the bonus room floor.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:53 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to install a vapor barrier?

Will writes from Urbana, Iowa: "If I am adding rigid foam insulation to my basement wall do I need to install a vapor barrier?"

Answer: We don't recommend adding a vapor retarder to FOAMULAR® insulation used in basement walls. We do recommend checking with local building code to see what is permitted and/or required.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:49 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I remove the insulation on my own or have it done professionally?

Lori writes from Liverpool, New York: "There is pink insulation between the floor joists on the 'ceiling' of my crawl space. The insulation is very old and had long been a nesting site for mice, so it is full of mouse feces and urine. We have closed up holes to the varmints but the insulation smells and I want to remove it from my home. Can I do that on my own with a mask and eye wear and long sleeves/pants etc., or do I have to hire a contractor. If the latter, how do I find someone who will do the job properly."

Answer: There is no long term health risk in the situation you describe. There is a possibility of irritation if the insulation is handled. That irritation is a mechanical abrasion caused by the ends of the fibers scratching the skin. This is not an allergic reaction and the itching generally subsides when the source of the irritation is removed by washing it off.

When you remove it, my suggestion is to bag it to minimize contact. Take your time and work "gently" to minimize dust. To minimize the temporary skin irritation associated with fiberglass insulation, take the precautions you mention - wear a long sleeved shirt that is loose at the neck and wrists, long pants, gloves and a cap. Wear eye protection (safety goggles, safety glasses or a face shield or a combination of these, as appropriate). And wear a disposable dust respirator to minimize the inhalation of dust. When you finish the job, launder the clothes you wore separately and take a warm-water shower with soap. Most people report no problems when they follow these procedures.

You can find an Owens Corning Certified Energy Professional™ through the company’s Web site based on you ZIP Code. At the home page, select Owens Corning Building Materials and Services. Click on the button labeled Find a Building Professional. Enter your ZIP Code and select the words that describe your project. Another click or so and you will have the option of selecting retailers or contractors. Click here for a shortcut to the Locator page.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:34 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I tape the seams plus the tops of the batts instead of putting in a poly vapor barrier?

Ken writes from Lake View, New York: "I'm re-insulating an enclosed porch with Kraft faced insulation - plus spray foam around the many windows and small gaps. I am having the crawl space under floor professionally spray foamed. I was told by an insulation contractor that I should tape all the seams plus the tops of the batts instead of putting in a poly vapor barrier. The plastic creates too great a vapor barrier with possibility of trapping moisture inside the walls. My finished wall will be tongue and groove wood paneling (maybe not best for sealing drafts). Is this approach correct?"

Answer: Your approach is sound. It is not necessary to install poly over our Kraft-faced product, as your contractor stated.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I install new insulation over the old?

Danny writes from Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania: "I am adding unfaced R-19 to my attic which has a compressed layer of R-13 already. My home is about 50 years old and I have noticed that the Kraft paper (vapor barrier) is in very poor shape under the R-13, with tears and just general deterioration. Should I just install the new insulation over the old and leave the old Kraft paper as undisturbed as possible?"

Answer: Yes, install unfaced insulation over the existing insulation. It is usually best to leave existing insulation in place to keep it out of the landfill and take advantage of whatever R-value it is able to contribute. Fill the cavity between the joists first and then run the next layer perpendicular to the first.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:27 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Which of your recommendations should I rely on?

Monique writes from Ontario, Canada: "I'm finishing a basement and adding sound proofing. Per an Owens Corning brochure obtained at my local Home Depot, when installing a drop ceiling and QuietZone above it, you recommend the QuietZone be within the lower portion of the joists and that a vapor barrier be attached to the underside of the joists to further improve sound proofing. However, I just read one of your responses on this blog site whereby you don't recommend a vapor barrier be installed when QuietZone and a drop ceiling are used. SO I don't know which of your recommendations I should rely on! Please clarify."

Answer: I regret that the brochure message is unclear. A vapor retarder is needed in the floor assembly only if there is an unheated space on one side of the assembly.

If there is another living space above, no vapor retarder is needed on the insulation. If there is unconditioned space above, we recommend that a vapor retarder be used (retarder toward warm-in-winter side of the assembly). Faced insulation should not be used if the space above the ceiling is a plenum.

For an acoustical assembly with QuietZone® insulation and a drop ceiling system, there no vapor retarder is required.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:51 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use fiberglass insulation with a backing over cellulose?

Ben writes from Rexford, New York: "I have a home built in the late 1970's in upstate New York. The attic has a good amount of blown in cellulose. There a soffit and ridge vents. I have a fair amount of moisture collecting in the attic causing mold. I checked under the cellulose and there was not vapor barrier installed. The attic is not finished and only has spaced 2x4s with drywall attached below. Can I place a vapor barrier or fiberglass insulation with a backing over the cellulose? I am hoping that I do not need to remove the cellulose to install a vapor barrier."

Answer: Cellulose is not a product Owens Corning manufactures. However, I can address this situation as it relates to fiberglass insulation. If ventilation is adequate, a vapor retarder is not always needed in an attic floor. The recommendation is one square foot of net free ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic floor when no vapor retarder is used.

In addition, it is common to see some condensation in attics in the colder winter months, especially when the insulation installed in the attic floor does not have the recommended R-value. Further, when Fiberglas insulation gets wet its R value is reduced.

In short, if you have proper ventilation, I would add more insulation (unfaced) to the attic floor.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate the ceiling of my garage?

Rick writes from Birmingham, Alabama: "My bedroom is over an uninsulated garage. During summer months the heat from cars heats up the bedroom. My garage has a sprinkler system but no insulation in the ceiling. What can I use that is fire proof and doesn't require sheet rock?"

Answer: You can install Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation in the ceiling of the garage with the paper facing up toward the warm-in-winter side, which is the conditioned living space. You should check with your local building code to be sure but most areas do not require the fiberglass to be covered.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:45 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I insulate over the porch?

Irene writes from Huntsville, Alabama: "I live in a small (1200 sq ft) home built in 1912. One story frame. The attic is continuous the length of the house, including over the porch. The over-the-porch section has no insulation on it, though the rest of the attic has R38. Since it is essentially one room, wouldn't I want to insulate over the porch area?

The existing insulation is the on-the-floor kind. New roof, architectural shingles, ridge vents and power vent & louvers on eaves. I am also seriously considering having cellulose insulation blown into the exterior walls, as there is none. Inside walls are plaster. I have had wiring checked. Comments?

My heating/ac bills are disproportionately high for neighborhood. AC isn't bad; it's heating the house. 2007 HVAC SEER 14. Gas/elec.

Also ductwork is in unheated crawl space. However, under the pink insulation. Would I likely need to retro-insulate ducts too? Or perhaps the crawlspace insulation is adequate since it is over ducts."

Answer: No. It is not necessary to insulate over the porch. Cold air that enters your attic through the ceiling of the porch is prevented from reaching the living space by the insulation over the living space. Insulating exterior walls is definitely a good idea. I recommend calling an HVAC contractor regarding your home's duct work and whether insulating it will improve your system.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:51 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What materials would allow us to achieve our goals?

Jon writes from Saint Paul, Minnesota: "We are converting an existing screened porch into living space and would like to have R38 in the ceiling. The ceiling is 2x4 with a tin roof above. We want to maintain as much ceiling height as possible. What materials would most effectively allow us to achieve our goals?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures R-38 fiberglass batt insulation. The product is 12 inches thick, 48 inches long and 16 or 24 inches wide. This would require furring out the ceiling joists quite a bit.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What R-value is recommended for the ceiling and side walls of a bonus room over the garage?

Jon writes from Saint Paul, Minnesota: "We are converting an existing screened porch into living space and would like to have R38 in the ceiling. The ceiling is 2x4 with a tin roof above. We want to maintain as much ceiling height as possible. What materials would most effectively allow us to achieve our goals?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures R-38 fiberglass batt insulation. The product is 12 inches thick, 48 inches long and 16 or 24 inches wide. This would require furring out the ceiling joists quite a bit.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I install rigid foam board before the shingles go on?

Maureen writes from Monterey, Massachusetts: "I am replacing the shingles on my roof with 30 yr. architectural shingles. A recent energy audit suggested that I have the roofer install rigid foam board insulation with a foil exterior on the plywood after the old shingles are removed, and before the new shingles go on. Is this an acceptable sequence for good insulation and construction? Existing plywood, rigid foam board then felt and then the new shingles?"

Answer: This construction does not follow our recommended installation practices as it fails to include an air space under the shingle deck. For good airflow we recommend that a minimum of one inch airspace be left under the shingle deck providing for soffit-to-ridge ventilation. But since the Owens Corning warranty covers manufacture defect in the product itself, we can only offer recommendations for application. For more information, I recommend consulting a building inspector or your local building code.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:39 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can we blow in insulation through a cutout?

Ginger writes from Bethesda, Maryland: "I am renovating an attic room. Unfortunately, the prior owners installed sheetrock without insulating. I do not want to tear down the sheetrock to insulate. My question is, can we blow in insulation through a cutout? If so, who is the best professional to do this?"

Answer: This is a question you need to ask an insulation contractor. You can find a list of contractors in your area through the Owens Corning website but the company does not list contractors who do retrofit work. Blowing fiberglass into existing walls runs the risk of damaging the walls.

If you would like to hire a professional, you can find an Owens Corning Certified Energy Professional® on the company’s website using your ZIP Code. First, go to the home page and select Owens Corning Building Materials and Services. Click on the button labeled Find a Building Professional. Enter your ZIP Code and select the words that best describe your project. Another click or so and you will have the option of selecting retailers or contractors. Click here for a shortcut to the Locator page.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should the insulation be covered?

Mike writes from Commack, New York: "I have an unheated basement with insulation between the joists. I am concerned about the dust and particles from this insulation. Should it be covered with plastic sheeting?"

Answer: No. The plastic would act as a vapor retarder and it would be on the wrong side of the assembly. A vapor retarder should be toward the warm-in-winter side. We also do not recommend plastic as a vapor retarder in basement applications. There is no long term health risk in the situation you describe but if you want to cover it, a thin sheet of plywood or OSB will work.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:34 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will I need to replace the insulation?

Paul writes from Lockport, Manitoba: "IN BUILDING AN ADDITION ON MY HOME I INSULATED MY WALLS, BUT DID NOT GET VAPOUR BARRIER UP RIGHT AWAY, THEREFORE IN THE COLD WEATHER FROST BUILT UP BEHIND INSULATION, WILL I NEED TO REPLACE THIS INSULATION, OR WILL IT DRY COME SPRING? ALSO, THERE IS NO SIDING ON OUTSIDE YET JUST HOUSEWRAP COVERING THE OSB. WOULD REMOVING THIS IN THE SPING HELP DRY THE INSULATION?"

Answer: Owens Corning generally recommends removing the insulation from the framing to allow it to dry. Wood framing may absorb the excess moisture.

Removing the housewrap should help make sure that all wood studs and OSB are dry before the wall is enclosed with vapour barrier and drywall from the inside, and housewrap and siding from the outside.

You should also consider the benefits of adding insulation to your walls from the exterior. The exterior walls of your house will be warmer with an insulating sheathing on the outside, against the OSB, before the housewrap. By adding 1" of PINK extruded polystyrene - Celfort 200 (2'x8') or Codebord (4'x8') in Canada - you will stop thermal bridging at the studs, which will eliminate cold spots.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:50 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What should I do to avoid moisture?

Jim writes from Cincinnati, Ohio: "I have built a cabin on a pole foundation. There is no access to the underside of the building. I don't want to take the floor up to insulate the underside. I was thinking of blowing insulation under the floor joist but worry about moisture and animals ruining the insulation and animals nesting. Any suggestions?"

Answer: Short of building up the floor, I don't know of a way to accomplish your objective. You have already ruled out the other option (taking up the floor to install the insulation).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate under the roof deck?

Jonathan writes from Salt Lake City, Utah: "I am undertaking a remodel that involves removing the shakes and replacing with new shingles. The GC recommends foam insulation sprayed on the underside of the roof deck. I understand that this application has many advantages for conditioning the home interior. However, I am concerned that this application will elevate the deck temperature and significantly shorten shingle life. Some experts such as Joe Lstiburek claim this is expected to result in no more than 10% reduced roof life. I am considering a product such as American Drain Wick's (ADW) Cedar Saver that provides 1/4 to 7/16ths space under shingles and may be coupled with a ridge vent. Under shingle ventilation seems like a superior solution compared with a 1" gap under the roof deck. Do you have a comment on the sealed attic and ADW solution?"

Answer: Owens Corning has not done any testing with our shingles related to these systems. The company only warranties manufacturing defects in the material. I would consult case studies from the systems manufacturers related to asphalt shingles.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:43 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can we use a paper-faced insulation?

Lora writes from Haddonfield, New Jersey: "After noticing that our home was the only one that didn't have snow on the roof, we inspected our attic to find that the insulation from the 1950's is R13. The sheathing is damp and there are obviously "drip marks" from condensation. We know that we must re-insulate the attic with R-30. The question is whether or not we can insulate with a paper-faced insulation or not. The existing insulation's face paper crumbles into pieces when touched. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. We don't want to go to the expense of 'doing the wrong things right.’"

Answer: We recommend Kraft-faced insulation for this application. It sounds as though you may have been getting condensation inside the fiberglass and pooling on the facing damaging it over time. This can occur in the winter months of really cold climates when a lower R-value product is used. New construction calls for R-49. I would go to at least an R-38. And make sure you have proper ventilation in your attic.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:49 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What vapor retarder should I use, Kraft or foil?

Steve writes from Darby, Pennsylvania: "I'M INSULATING MY ATTIC. IT IS UN-INSULATED AT THE MOMENT. MY AVAILABLE SPACE IS 6" HIGH AND 15" WIDE. WHAT VAPOR RETARDER DO I USE, KRAFT OR FOIL? I WILL ALSO BE INSTALLING A FLOOR IN THE ATTIC AFTER I INSULATE."

Answer: Kraft-faced insulation is recommended for residential applications. Foil is commonly used in commercial buildings.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:45 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I place insulation against a window?

Leslie writes from Hood River, Oregon: "Can I place insulation up against a window, and if so, which way? Pink side out or pink side in?"

Answer: We do not have recommendations for using the product in this fashion. Fiberglass insulation is not made for use on windows; it is intended for use in the cavities between wall studs and floor joists. If you are determined to use the product this way, put PINK side out; otherwise it will need to be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier. Don't be surprised when the nice PINK color fades; the product is not intended for long-term exposure to light.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:37 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I get the proper R-value with only a 6" space?

Dale writes from Mount Holly, New Jersey: "My question has to do with an unfinished attic and its insulation. My old house has attic floor joists that are 2x6 and since I plan on installing a floor over the Joists (for storage space), How can I possibly get the proper R rating I need (R30 minimum) with only 6" of Joist to work with? I started installing R30 Batt but since it's a bit higher than the joists, your web site tells me that compressing it will only give me R21 value. R21 attic floor insulation is not good enough for my area correct?"

Answer: You are correct in understanding that R-21 is not what is recommended for your area. The maximum you can put in a 2x6 cavity is R-21 but you can build up the joist to hold the R-30.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:27 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I leave the insulation exposed to the elements?

Javier writes from Sugar Land, Texas: "I have a beach home in Galveston, TX- the house is on piers about 10 feet above ground. In the winter the floors in the house get very cold. The floors are laminated/glued onto the plywood decking. Underneath, the decking is exposed to the elements. I'd like to insulate but fear the moister of the gulf creating an issue. I do not necessarily want to go through the trouble of insulating and then enclosing with plywood. Can I leave the insulation (unfaced) exposed to the elements?"

Answer: Generally, fiberglass insulation is left exposed in crawlspaces but the dirt floor is covered with 4 to 6 mil plastic. This protects the fiberglass from ground moisture. In your case, everything is open so I don't think the plastic is necessary. In the event that the fiberglass gets wet, it will need to be removed and allowed to dry completely and then reinstalled.

I would weigh the benefits of covering with plywood now versus the potential for the material to get wet. Also, it is a good idea to check with your local building code for additional recommendations.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:23 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I add paper-backed insulation between the studs?

Debbie writes from Erie, Pennsylvania: "I have already glued 3 inch foamular onto my basement walls. I would like to put paper-backed insulation between my studs. Will this cause a vapor barrier? Perhaps leading to mold in the future? Should I use paperless insulation instead?"

Answer: FOAMULAR® extruded foam insulation at three inches has a perm rating that is higher than the rating for standard residential vapor retarders (1.0). So, generally, placing fiberglass insulation in front of it is not recommended.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:19 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a calculator that can be used to determine the number of bags of insulation that will be needed?

Sallie writes from Rich Square, North Carolina: "Is there a calculator that can be used to determine the number of bags of insulation that will be needed based on the square footage of the building and the R-value that you wish to achieve?"

Answer: There is an online calculator that may be helpful at the website insulateyouratticnow.com. When you get to the site, look for a large number 2 and the word Prep. Click there and on the next page you will see a link with the words Insulation Calculator. Click on that link and the same one on the next page and you will get to the online calculator. Answer the questions it asks and you should get the information you need.

The old "tried and true" method (without a calculator) is to start by figuring out the square footage of the attic to be insulated (multiply the width by the length). At the store, find the insulation with the R-value you need and check the amount of coverage in the bag. Divide that number into the total square footage needed to determine the number of bags you should buy. Then load up the cart and head for the check-out area.

Owens Corning also has a handheld insulation calculator we can mail if you send us your snail-mail address.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:48 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will it help to put insulation under the floor?

Martin writes from Rochester, New York: "The home I am living in does not have a lot of insulation and is drafty. I was wondering if I place insulation under the floor (the basement ceiling) will it help heat the place any better."

Answer: If you have an unconditioned basement (not heated or cooled) placing insulation under the first floor will help the home's overall energy efficiency. If the basement is heated, the insulation needs to go in the walls. The general idea is to wrap the conditioned spaces with a blanket of insulation. The place to consider first is the attic. Most of a home's heat is lost through the attic because heat tends to rise as it moves toward a colder area. That's why the U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 for attics in your area, which is about 15 1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation. For an unconditioned attic, the insulation should first fill the cavities between the floor joists, and if there is a second layer it should run perpendicular to the direction of the joists. You mention drafts so I should also point out that sealing the envelope of the home is a good line of defense in that regard. It is important to caulk and weather-strip around all seams, cracks and openings. Pay special attention to windows and electrical outlets. Unwanted air leakage alone can raise energy bills up to 10 percent. Understanding how much energy a home uses can help you determine what changes will save you the most energy and money. For an easy home energy audit, check out the Owens Corning Home Report Card®. The quiz provides tailored recommendations for improving home energy efficiency.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do we insulate our concrete basement wall and not cause wetness problems in the insulation?

Charles writes from Chillicothe, Ohio: "My full basement walls are 8" reinforced concrete. My house is 7 years old and I have not had any liquid water leaks through the walls or floor. The walls are backfilled with clean gravel and the walls are coated with black mastic vapor barrier. A foundation drain was installed around the walls. The walls are completely or partially below grade except for one exposure that is entirely above grade where doors in the wall opens to a patio. No vapor barrier was sprayed on this exposure. We have had a bit of mold on the inside of the wall along the above-grade portion of the wall at the form joints. No mold anywhere else. How do we insulate the inside of the concrete basement wall and not cause wetness problems in the insulation from room moisture or moisture from the walls?"

Answer: This is a complex question to handle via email. The Owens Corning Customer Service office is closed until Wednesday but I suggest calling then to discuss your situation. The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465). Another option is to contact an insulation contractor. Owens Corning currently has no Certified Energy Professional® installers listed for your area so I don’t have anyone to recommend. You may want to check the local Yellow Pages for "Insulation Contractors," or ask a local home improvement store for a list of local installers.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:41 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I take all the old stuff out first?

Dale writes from Mount Holly, New Jersey: "My wife and I purchased and moved into our first home a year ago. It was built in 1940.It is a peaked roof, however the attic crawl space above our second floor bedrooms was never used. I cut a hole in our ceiling and installed a pull down ladder for easy access. Then I decided to install flooring in our attic to use it as extra storage space. Two problems I discovered. There was originally a cedar shake roof on this house which at some time was replaced with regular shingles. When they took the old cedar roof off, A LOT of the cedar pieces fell into the attic area and crushed the insulation. They left most of the cedar pieces where they fell .My question is if I should add additional insulation to what's there, or take all the old stuff out first than add new before putting a floor in. The original insulation is some kind of mineral wool and at this point, it's only a few inches thick minus the cedar shingles."

Answer: You don't need to remove the existing insulation but I do recommend removing the pieces of cedar shingle. Removing the cedar pieces will eliminate the compression that is reducing the thermal value of the existing insulation. With regard to the insulation, it is usually better to avoid the work and mess of removal, keep the old insulation out of the landfill and take advantage of whatever R-value it is able to contribute. Place new, unfaced insulation on top of the existing insulation. The first task is to fill the cavity between the floor joists. After that, place the next layer of insulation perpendicular to the direction of the joists. See my previous post about the real cost of attic storage space (How can I insulate without losing all storage capability?).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is the minimum amount of space required between the insulation and the roof?

Dan writes from New Castle, Delaware: "I am adding additional insulation to my attic. It is an A frame house with only about 18 inches of space from the second floor ceiling to the roof line. What is the minimum amount of space that I must have between the insulation and the roof? If I add R-30 I will have 9 inches or less of free air space. The house has a ridge vent and triangular louvre vents on both ends of the house at the peak."

Answer: You have plenty of room. We recommend a minimum one inch space be maintained between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the roof deck.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:33 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will additional insulation compress the insulation below?

Glenn writes from Mount Gilead, Ohio: "My attic is currently insulated with 3 1\2" x 24 R11 batts between the trusses and 8" x 16 R25 batts going perpendicular to the trusses. This gives me an R36, which at the time the attic was insulated was the recommended value. Now the recommended value is R49. If I place an unfaced R13 3 1\2" x 16 batt over top of the 8" batt will it cause the 8" batt to compress due to the weight of the batt on top? What if I use a 6" batt instead, does that increase the compression due to the weight? Would an R55 be over kill? Would you recommend using batts or blown in insulation to get to R49?"

Answer: You may experience very minimal compression but fiberglass insulation for residential use is very light and the layering of insulation in this fashion is common. The choice between blowing wool or Fiberglas™ batts is up to the installer. A special machine is needed to install blown-in insulation so batt insulation is typically more convenient for a do-it-yourself project. You can install more insulation than the U.S. Department of Energy-recommended standard of R-49 but be sure not to block ventilation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:30 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I insulate without losing all storage capability?

Cory writes from Euclid, Ohio: "I have a 1960's era brick ranch with a nice open attic. I am trying to maintain a good storage area but want to re-insulate also. If I were to add the 15.5 inches of insulation needed I would lose all storage capabilities. Please Help!!"

Answer: A total of 15.5 inches of insulation is recommended for your area (R-49) but any amount of insulation will be helpful. Filling the cavity between the floor joists is a first step. Additional insulation should be placed on top and perpendicular to the direction of the joists. Perhaps the flooring can be built up to accommodate additional insulation and the area can still be used for storage.

A point to consider as you decide what to do is the real "cost of storage." We tend to think attic storage space is free, but if it prevents us from installing the recommended amount of insulation there is definitely a cost for that storage in higher utility bills and CO2 emissions.

Bringing your home up to insulation standards recommended by the U.S. Department of Energy could help reduce your home heating and cooling bills as much as 20 percent*. Under-insulated homes can also emit as much as one-half ton more CO2 every year than their properly-insulated neighbors.

* Savings vary depending on location and weather conditions. For an explanation of the U.S. EPA methodology used to estimate energy savings go to: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_methodology

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:25 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is the best insulation (not blown in) to use with IC-rated recessed light fixtures?

Kristen writes from Augusta, Georgia: "I have IC rated recessed fixtures in my attic. What is the best insulation (not blown in) to use on these fixtures? I will be laying the insulation on top of the fixtures."

Answer: In my opinion, the best insulation for your project is PINK unfaced Fiberglas™ batts. I say that because pink is my favorite color and because Owens Corning is the only company that markets PINK insulation products.

I am recommending unfaced insulation batts because I assume there is already some insulation in place. If not, use Kraft-faced batts but remove the paper facing from the areas within a few inches of the light fixtures.

IC-rated light fixtures are intended for direct contact with insulation. IC stands for Insulated Contact. An IC-rated fixture must therefore, by definition, be approved for zero clearance insulation cover by an OSHA NRTL laboratory such as Underwriters Laboratory (commonly referred to as UL).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:23 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What kind of insulation do I need for an attic crawl space?

Darrell writes from Austin, Minnesota: "I need to insulate knee wall in an attic crawl space. My goal is to keep the upstairs in this story and a half house warmer. Floor and ceiling is already fairly well insulated. What kind of insulation do I need?"

Answer: For Minnesota you need a higher R-value for exterior knee walls. If you have 2x4 framing, use Kraft-faced R-15 fiberglass insulation. If you have larger 2x6 framing, use Kraft-faced R 21. Install the insulation with the paper in toward the finished room.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:21 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I leave the bonus room insulated if it will not be heated or cooled?

Richard writes from Andover, Connecticut: "I am building a house and insulated the garage ceiling and sheetrocked it. I also insulated the bonus room above the garage but will not be able to finish because of septic building code issues. Can I leave this bonus room insulated if it will not be heated or cooled? If not, what are the potential problems?"

Answer: We don't recommend insulating a non-conditioned area. In the summer months this can create a hot-box effect where the room heats up during the day and retains that heat when the outside temperature declines. This trapped heat may then transfer into adjoining areas. We recommend removing some of the un-needed insulation and making sure the area is ventilated.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:06 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to replace the insulation?

James writes from Bound Brook, New Jersey: "In my attic I had aprox 2" of insulation I removed all the insulation and replaced with unfaced not knowing it should be faced for a vapor barrier will I have any problems leaving it in place or do I need to replace it?"

Answer: Most communities require a vapor retarder but its use and placement varies throughout the U.S. depending on humidity levels. Your local building code official makes those decisions and any exceptions. Some building codes do not require a vapor barrier in your situation if the attic space has sufficient ventilation.

For information about ventilation, check the Owens Corning website. The minimum ratio is 1/300, meaning one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space. We recommend a ratio of 1/150.

If you decide to use a vapor retarder, consider getting a "paint on" vapor retarder for the ceilings below the attic. This paint can be found at any local paint shop.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:03 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do bathroom walls need to be insulated?

Wendy writes from Miami, Florida: "Do bathroom walls need to be insulated? If yes, what do you put around the tub area behind the durock? Also, I have a soffit that houses an a/c duct, do I need to insulate around the duct and then sheet rock the soffit?"

Answer: Exterior bathroom walls should be insulated for thermal control. Interior or partition walls can be insulated for sound control. Ducts should be insulated but I am not familiar with what you are calling a "soffit;" it doesn't seem like you are referring to what I know as a soffit. As a result, I am unclear on whether said "soffit" should be sheet rocked. Can you provide more details or call my friends at the Owens Corning customer service center? Their number is 1 800-Get Pink™ (438-7465)

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:59 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

© 1996 - 2010 by Owens Corning     Privacy Policy